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Showing posts from April, 2020

A Perfect Suit Fit

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When you think about wearing a suit what are the first few things that come to mind? How killer it makes you look (aka, the fit) is obviously numero uno. Know the question is how to know whether a particular suit fit you well or not. Let's go back to the basics and understand the 5 keys to a well fitted suit. We can divide fit in two broad categories. Each has further sub areas to get a perfect fit     a)  Width / Girth          1.  Shoulder          2.  Collar          3.  Mid-Section     b)  Length          4.  Jacket Length          5.  Sleeve Length 1.  The Shoulder - Proper fitting shoulder means when the padding in the shoulder is aligned with wearer, creating a smooth, straight line from the collar to the sleeve. Then, the jacket will drop sharply like a cliff when it meets the sleeve. The shoulders should lay perfectly flat, with no divots, rumpling, or pulling on the shoulders.  If you have more rounded shoulders, the seam should still e

Full canvas, half canvas or fused?

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A perfect Suit Quality has three parameters 1. Suit Fit 2. Fabric Feel 3. Suit Construction In this post will discuss on third parameter, suit construction. The make of your suit has advantages and consequences you should know. There are three different ways to construct a suit Jacket,  1. Full Canvas 2. Half Canvas 3. Fused Full Canvas 1. Full canvas / Floating Canvas - Back in the day, all suits were made of canvas. It was usually a horsehair canvas, which is sewn between the lining and the cloth of the jacket. The canvas allows the suit fabric to drape properly and will mold to your body over time (for the perfect fit). It aids in the longevity of the suit by distributing tension at stress points (shoulders, elbows), it allows the suit to “breathe” and holds up to repeated dry cleaning. Half Canvas 2. Half Canvas - Eventually, a compromise was developed: a half canvas suit. A half canvased suit uses a sewn in canvas piece in the chest an